Project Paint

[Stuart]

Interesting work with the quick shade? Not quite sure what quick shade is to be honest would be good to see a demo picture... In my head I imagine inks and/or washes.

It's great stuff Rob. Andy T (a former player at the club) was a big advocate of it and inspired some of us to try it. His recipe is pretty simple but produces great results with some practice...

Glad to see people trying the dip etc. I am still a big fan of the army painter strong tone dip. The key thing is you NEED the dip to pool (to a certain extent) and flow down the model - that's what gives the brilliant shading effects. Devlan mud covers too evenly to give the same effect - it is still great stuff but I use it now as a matt varnish (and extra contrast) after I "dip".

Here are some "white" figures:
http://warhammer.org.uk/phpBB/viewtopic....11&t=99427

The key thing here is NOT to use block colours prior to "dipping" - washes (60:40 mix of water:paint) give a much better contrast. None of the figures in the article above have any highlighting (other than on the faces). Similarly, the "black" is done with dark brown. Privateer Paints (P3 Paints) and Coat d'Arms Paints (the original "GW paints" from many years ago) are excellent for this - I'm afraid GW paints are not. Also, use big brushes - the figs above were mostly painted with a size 4 brush (yes, size 4, Pro Arte Prolene - available from art shops).

Finally, plan your painting time. Yes, the dip takes 24 hours to dry so paint it on last thing in an evening and it is ready for the next day. Give all undercoats 24 hours to dry - I use GW Skull White spray - they may look dry after a few mins but they are not. The dip is oil based - I use Polycleanse brush cleaner (the bright blue stuff, Homebase).

I've used it for plenty of stuff, including my entire SAGA force (of which I can't find many photos unfortunately). Some other examples below:

http://forum.redwarsoc.com/showthread.ph...0#pid13790

http://forum.redwarsoc.com/showthread.ph...2#pid14082

http://forum.redwarsoc.com/showthread.ph...0#pid16850

http://forum.redwarsoc.com/showthread.ph...4#pid23754

http://forum.redwarsoc.com/showthread.ph...1#pid29961

These were all produced using the oil based product in the tin (available in 3 shades, shop around and it's around £16/tin) rather than the inks.

My basic process based on Andy's advice is white primer, 50/50 paint/water base coat, minor highlights, apply strong tone quickshade with a brush, then anti-shine varnish.