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Current project is my newly acquired Warhammer Fantasy Empire Army. Having bought a load of figures off a couple of guys in the club and added to it with some new figures, I have decided on the Stirland colour scheme for my army. That means repainting the lot...

I have started with 10 Halbadiers

Methodology.
1. Remove shields and tidy model of flash etc.
2. Apply 50/50 PVA/Water to base and dunk in Sharp Sand.
3. Undercoat with Halfords White primer Spray.
4. Use washes of Reeves Acrylics (Tubes) and GW Metalics (all very watery).
5. Coat with Quickshade Strong tone
6. Coat with Winsor & Newton Acrylic Matt Varnish.

Results to follow...
The first 10 rank and file...[attachment=585]
another view...
Looking good Paul!
They look magnificent - looks like you've well and truly nailed the quickshade technique!
Thanks guys.

Still learning.

There is a bit too much shade on these. It was only when I shaded the shields later that I realised it's worth cleaning the brush off and removing some shade from where it has pooled a bit too much in certain places.

When I first painted the matt varnish on I left the armour gloss. It was nice and shiny, but I decided it looked more like it was wet than glossy so matted the whole lot.

The main positive is that I have done nothing here other than paint the base colours on (as watery washes) and then quickshade. The washes help provide highlighting.

There's a process to follow but I think/hope the routine should mean painting figures en masse has suddenly become very easy.

It assumes you like this style of painting/finish.

My intention is to paint an initial 2000 pts of Empire and if I like the results I'll use the technique on everything else.
I could really do with someone showing me how to do it as this Quickshade sounds like a good technique and I'm struggling with my warriors!
It's really simple. Paint the entire model in its base colours. Flesh in a flesh tone, red armour in red etc.

Then paint on the "dip" which in this case is one of the various quick shades. Paul's using Strong, Stu uses mid or soft. It will leave your models shiney (not in a Firefly sense,) so the important step is to apply an anti-shine coat. Dull-cote is effective.

I assume Paul (question here,) is that using thinned paints over a white undercoat, is to provide a degree of highlight to start with (paint will tint the white, rather than cover it, so when it runs off into recesses, tinting gets lighter on raised areas.) Is that correct? Also another question, is have you tried it with red, and if so does it leave the white pink rather than red?
(10-02-2013, 01:28 AM)Agincourt Wrote: [ -> ]It was only when I shaded the shields later that I realised it's worth cleaning the brush off and removing some shade from where it has pooled a bit too much in certain places.

I found this too - sometimes there is a little too much pooling that requires some of the liquid to be removed with a clean brush. I tend to have a look at the model about 10 minutes after applying the quickshade and see where the stuff is pooling.
(10-02-2013, 12:15 PM)jjakaalbinoboy Wrote: [ -> ]I could really do with someone showing me how to do it as this Quickshade sounds like a good technique and I'm struggling with my warriors!

Andy's original guide is here JJ - http://forum.redwarsoc.com/showthread.ph...69#pid9069. If there's enough interest we can arrange a quickshade demo at the club one week, that way anyone who wants to try it can do so without having to fork out for a £20 tin.

(10-02-2013, 12:34 PM)Gareth Wrote: [ -> ]Paul's using Strong, Stu uses mid or soft.

We're both using Strong (the mid tone) - above this there is Dark (based on black ink rather than brown) and below there is Soft. The nomenclature is a tad confusing, they would have been better off explicity using soft/mid/strong naming terms I think.
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